Do You Want a brand new Bike


5 Reasons Why You NEED A Gravel Bike

Video taken from the channel: Francis Cade


Do these 4 things before you buy a new bike

Video taken from the channel: Bike Fit Adviser


Cheap New Bike Or A Used Bike With A Higher Spec? | GCN Tech Show Ep. 77

Video taken from the channel: GCN Tech


99% Of NEW Bikes Need These 5 Maintenance Tricks For Your Safety. SickBiker Tips.

Video taken from the channel: SickBiker


when should I buy a NEW BIKE?

Video taken from the channel: Cameron Jeffers


Buy New Or Upgrade Your Bike? | GMBN Discusses The Pros And Cons

Video taken from the channel: Global Mountain Bike Network


Top Reasons You Should Get A New Mountain Bike | Bike Excuses

Video taken from the channel: Global Mountain Bike Network

So, a new bike doesn’t have to be better than what you’ve got. Trading down from your current bike will mean trading up your fitness. After a year of torture on your new bad bike, treat yourself to a ride on your old good bike. Like magic, it will feel like a new bike again.

A new bike! Do you want to try riding on a slightly different surface?Good reasons to get a new bike. Because manufacturers inform you this years model is 20% more rigid, 12% lighter, 7 % more aerodynamic and only 33% more expensive.

If you buy, everyone’s a winner! If you don’t buy a new bike, it means you will be riding a bike that is potentially slower than you could be riding. By Steve Casimiro | August 23, 2013. [wpfp-link] Some of us already know whether we need a new bike, some of us always know whether we need a new bike.

But others of us, well, we’re wracked by indecision, boxed by budgetary constraints, or out of room in the garage, gear shed, or apartment hallway. Whichever category you fall into, however, you will no doubt find our decision tree. Here’s what not to do when buying a new bike. Don’t Buy Without Taking a Test Ride.

You don’t know how a bike truly fits or handles until you’ve hopped in the saddle and taken it for a. Once you purchase the bike itself, you need to keep paying a $39 monthly subscription fee, or you’re left with just three classes and a free-ride mode that displays only real-time data on the. If you have a 3, 4, 7, 8 or 14 speed bike with an internally-geared hub, you can pretty much shift into any gear at any time, although you should take the pressure off the pedals before you shift. Make sure older 3-speed bikes are adjusted properly from time to time. What you will see in these charts is that adult bikes are generally measured by their bicycle frame size.

Wheel size is a very important metric if you are a child because you need to be able to stand over your bike if you want to ride it, and wheels that are too big won’t let you do that. You don’t need a shed full of tools to achieve this, but it helps to have a friendly bike shop nearby in case you need advice. 6. Clean and oil your chain regularly, particularly if riding in. If you’re bringing an old or used bike to a shop, be mindful that a handful of repairs — a set of tires, a new chain, a new wheel — can add up quickly, and require a lot of labor. Bike theft is a really unfortunate part of cycling.

No one wants to be the victim, but it happens, and a good bike lock can help to protect you.. Most bike locks are rated by independent testers.

List of related literature:

I didn’t need a new bike last year.

“SPEED UP Structure Practice Book / İngilizce Dilbilgisi Çalışma Kitabı” by Hidayet Tuncay
from SPEED UP Structure Practice Book / İngilizce Dilbilgisi Çalışma Kitabı
by Hidayet Tuncay
Tuncay (Yayıncılık) Publishing, 2012

The bike fit is so important that you should get one every year even if you are riding the same bike from last year on which you already had a fit.

“The Triathlete's Training Bible: The World’s Most Comprehensive Training Guide, 4th Ed.” by Joe Friel
from The Triathlete’s Training Bible: The World’s Most Comprehensive Training Guide, 4th Ed.
by Joe Friel
VeloPress, 2016

You should never discard one bicycle just because you have bought another one more reason for keeping the older bicycle is to have a sporting-quality machine to lend to interesting people.

“Effective Cycling” by John Forester
from Effective Cycling
by John Forester
MIT Press, 1993

You preferred the benefits of the new bike to the benefits of the old one.

“The Freedom Model for Addictions: Escape the Treatment and Recovery Trap” by Steven Slate, Mark W. Scheeren, Michelle L. Dunbar
from The Freedom Model for Addictions: Escape the Treatment and Recovery Trap
by Steven Slate, Mark W. Scheeren, Michelle L. Dunbar
BRI Publishing, 2017

Of course he wants a brand-new bike.

“Child Hunters: Requiem of a Childkiller” by Carine Hutsebaut
from Child Hunters: Requiem of a Childkiller
by Carine Hutsebaut
Xlibris UK, 2011

My bike that has a broken seat is in the garage.

“The Cracker Mains Exams eBook: Among the Top Selling and Most Reliable book to Crack Mains Exam” by Adda 247 Publications
from The Cracker Mains Exams eBook: Among the Top Selling and Most Reliable book to Crack Mains Exam
by Adda 247 Publications
Adda247 Publications, 2019

A fancy new bike or a case of good wine would be acceptable purchases from this account, but a repair to the roof would certainly not.

“Nudge: Improving Decisions about Health, Wealth, and Happiness” by Richard H. Thaler, Cass R. Sunstein
from Nudge: Improving Decisions about Health, Wealth, and Happiness
by Richard H. Thaler, Cass R. Sunstein
Yale University Press, 2008

As of today, there are 96 bikes restored and ready to go to new homes.

“The Best American Sports Writing 2019” by Jackie MacMullan, Glenn Stout, Charles P. Pierce
from The Best American Sports Writing 2019
by Jackie MacMullan, Glenn Stout, Charles P. Pierce
Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2019

The bike is returned to B with all the moving parts replaced.

“Acquisition and Loss of Ownership of Goods” by Wolfgang Faber, Brigitta Lurger
from Acquisition and Loss of Ownership of Goods
by Wolfgang Faber, Brigitta Lurger
sellier european law publishers, 2011

No need for another month run, the bike is SOLD.

“Walneck's Classic Cycle Trader: July 2010” by Causey Enterprises, LLC
from Walneck’s Classic Cycle Trader: July 2010
by Causey Enterprises, LLC
Causey Enterprises, LLC, All Rights Reserved,

Oktay Kutluk

Kutluk Oktay, MD, FACOG is one of the world's foremost experts in fertility preservation as well as ovarian stimulation and in vitro fertilization for infertility treatments. He developed and performed the world's first ovarian transplantation procedures as well as pioneered new ovarian stimulation protocols for embryo and oocyte freezing for breast and endometrial cancer patients.

Mail: [email protected]
Telephone: +1 (877) 492-3666

Bibliography: oktay_bibliography

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  • Managed to get myself a 2014 S Works Venge with Campy Record, S Works Carbon Crank and Tuff Carbon wheels with Chris King R45 Hubs for just 1500 pounds, with all the papers
    Second hand any day man

  • I dont know if i could live without this channel. I literally just found this channel and immediately subscribed about 3 months ago now. Anyway i watch this and #gmbmtech all day long every single day since. Now i feel i must be addicted. Iv since baught a brand new gt pantera sport. It is a plus size bike and iv upgraded literally everything beside the bottom bracket crank and rims n tires but i will be upgrading those very soon. I appreciate you guys at gmbm very very much. I love all the information, maintenance tips and all the little details on the newest tech. Please keep it coming and please keep up the great work you all do. Thanks again. Always watching��

  • Currently shopping for my next road bike… second hand. Definitely can’t afford brand new. So much has changed since I used to do sprint distance races 35 years ago. Wow! Where do I get started again! Help!

  • Well Honey, there was this avalanche and I dig it out but then there was a big land slide and I dug it out but then there was a tsunami and I fished it out but then the volcano erupted and the lava melted it. I loved that bike but believe you me that’s why I need a new one. OK?

  • I own both full and a hardtail. I’ll tell you this. I ride my hardtail 80%of the time. It’s a way faster bike and climbing is on a different level then a full suspension.

  • Yeah……….The one that New and Expensive bike make you faster………..So i will get another one………………WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

  • People who bash gravel bikes are often too serious about cycling. I’ve bought one as my only bike and I will never be a serious cyclist. Its more comfortable than a road bike and still pretty quick, whilst allowing you to explore different paths and tracks.

  • I test rode a dh bike at a bike park a few weeks ago, all I could think about is how much better everything felt than on my trail bike so much so that my trail bike is less fun now, because I constantly think I’d rather be on a dh now. So now I’m in the market lol

  • My Foes Weasel lasted 20 years before it started asking if it could retire (literally need re-tyre with 20yo Gazzaloddis).
    So I bought a 10yo Giant Faith 0 that should last out my retirement (52 now…).

    Anyone done better than 20yrs on one bike?

  • What year is it? Stack and reach have replaced ETT and HT in these matters as they compare more easily and eliminate fork, tire and angle differences. Love your attention to detail but your current approach really overcomplicates things.

  • Im finally getting a new bike after riding my dads 15 year old diamondback bike. I cant wait, this is going to technically be my first bike I’ve bought an owned.

  • I wish I would have found this video before I purchased my $7000.00 custom trike. I lost several bolts on my first ride.

    Thanks for the info. I hope everyone who is purchasing a new bike sees your video before they try to ride there new bike or trike.

  • I have a cube cross race, bought before I watched any of your videos with james and thought that I made a mistake for really being able to enjoy the bike, to be honest it’s been a great purchase, I really like the way it rides, I don’t know if this is because it’s the only real drop bar bike I’ve ridden or whether it’s a bit like the caadx, slackened geometry to make it a more all round bike. Fitted some road tyres and I can keep pace with my brother riding a specialised allez so not too shabby

  • Nailed it! I got a gravel bike and bought a second set of wheels one for trails and one for road. Easy to switch between the two, done races on it cos it has decent 105 groupset and it’s so much fun on the trails. Plus I got it to do some bikepacking! And then lockdown happened ��

  • in my lowest back gear is catching the chain on the one second gear ring. I figures my wheel, frame or rings are twisted a bit on the right but will work it out latter.

  • Make it from your city appt to hitting a trail hard. Keep up with your Roadbike friends and MTB bike friends (keeping up…not race…) and have some fun adventures. I just posted my first bike vid demonstrating the capabilities of a gravel bike in an urban adventure setting having fun tearing up the park in my back yard. Also pass people on grass to maintain distance and take fun scenic shortcuts. Very practical. Lots of fun.

  • Next year you’ll see gravel bikes with straight bars, i’ve had a 26er hardtail Alu frame with no suspension forks for years, super nippy but not hip at all, the frame and wheels would take disc brake but im still running V brakes, i think of it as an All Terrain Bike, slicks for tarmac or some off road tyres if needed, also usable as a tourer. fashions come and go but the pedals keep turning. great channel, love the bike packing vids. cheers

  • Could we ask James to do a BFT on gravel bikes? Including the trend to wider and wider flared drop handlebars? I remember him saying he wasn’t that happy with his set up in Vietnam?

  • Hi I’m 180 cms tall, will this bike fit me.

  • I have nearly always bought slightly used tyres for my MTB as I ride a variety of stuff on it. I bit the bullet the other day and bought a new pair of Conti Race king Supersonic for my commute and it has completely and utterly transformed my bike…I hadn’t realised how poor some of my tyres had got. £55 for the pair….best and cheapest upgrade ever..

  • more a valid question around the 1000 pound point I guess. You get starter beginner aluminum kit (but a proper good beginner bike though) for that, or a second hand with a higher level of groupsets or even carbon frames and such.

  • Mountain biking has become something I’m beginning to think is out of my reach. I cannot even imagine buying what it would take to race, let alone asking a question like this…buy a new one or?
    Shame. I’m not the only talent wasted this I know, and it’s why these so called pros have no real competitors…just spoiled rich kids…ya I know, not all of them.

  • The actual formula is b = n+1 = r-1 where b is the number of bikes you want, n is the number you have right now, and r is the number at which your spouse will leave you.

  • Seems you can get better components at a much lower price by upgrading. Make sure the frame and swing arm geometry work for you. If so, then upgrade and have fun with top level brakes, fork, and rear shock, derailer…then the little stuff. Parts go on sale/clearance often, so affording last year’s best instead of this year’s average on that new bike is the way to go for performance and budget.

  • A year ago I really wanted a carbon road bike with hydro disc brakes to put a lot of miles on… I bought a year old Defy 2 Advanced for 900 Euros with spare front rings and a bike computer thrown in and fitted with a 105 group set… Found it in France on I couldn’t get a new carbon bike with hydro disc brakes for anywhere near that and I have been delighted every km since!

  • @Global Mountain Bike Network… modern mountain bikes suck because of destandardization in the bicycle industry and adoption of 29er wheels because of US tariffs on foreign-made 26″ wheeled bikes. This makes for bloated mountain bikes with bicycle parts that won’t be supported by the manufacturer in the future.

  • This is so far from a comparision I was expecting lol
    A friend of mine just bought an 2012 fuji for $800 which retailed for over $4000 when it was released. I was expecting something like that to be compared to a cheaper model that sells today like on the beginner carbon price around $2000.
    If they were going to compare the same bike they should have compared a used one and a new one around the same price… just my thought, to see if it would be worth buying a bike with less spec but new instead of an older bike for the same price or cheaper with better specs…

  • I have a short travel 29er but I find my self wanting more travel so should I buy a trail/enduro bike or should I make my bike a 29/27.5 mullet and add a longer travel fork?

  • It’s cool to buy a brand new bike, when you can afford what you want, BUT upgrading your existing bike it’s like maintaining your relationship with a good old friend

  • I have a 4X racing hardtale since 2014 and have changed nothing but the drive train on it. Funny thing is the discipline has already died but the bike still runs like a dream

  • My old bike, a Scott Aspect was great fun for 700 quid. It was costing me £150 per year to jeep it running next year, the maintenance costs would have exceeded the cost of the bike. It was time for a new one. The Scott was great but it was also time to upgrade. Got a Whyte g170s. More expensive and capable, but, I’m guessing that the new machine is going to be more expensive to maintain?

  • I have a 35 year old Centurion Equaliser and it out sprints must carbon bikes, mind you the gearing is different, more comfortable then my carbon bike too.. thanks

  • As someone who has recently bought a new bike, you forgot the “I don’t need to buy a gym membership, so I can add that to the budget” excuse ��

  • Providing a bikes looked after then there’s no limit on how long you can use it, far too many believe the hype and buy newer, lighter bikes when in reality more time on the bike and losing a few pounds would be a lot cheaper.

  • I’m definately more a fan of keeping it till it dies or there is a significant change in bikes that makes it extremely hard to get replacements (eg. tapered head tube and 27.5″ wheels)

  • Morning Cam, Been running my Scott Foil Di2 for the fourth season now but looking to change it for next season….. normaly have changed my bike every 2-3 years but i have just loved my foil!

  • had my Diverge 5 years now, and got it exactly for most of those 5 (or 6) reasons:) its only tyres Ive never really experimented with, just kept the 30 road tyres it came with which dont have off road treads which I can confirm are then useless on anything other than reasonably hard packed dirt off roading wise, so yeah definitely think about the right tyres if you want to mix up with terrain that gets muddy, but it still handles most mixed road conditions you find on the country back roads or farm tracks with loose sand,gravel, and all manner of bumps/lumps/holes perfectly fine far better than a dedicated road bike would,so Id definitely recommend getting a gravel bike.

  • I’m a typical Yorkshire guy and I won’t get new bikes till it either becomes too much of a pain finding decent parts of suitable quality. I’ve always maintained, upgraded or modified to keep them going, my last bike I bought in 2005 and I’ve still got it but its been adapted to a comuter and I bit the bullet and got a new to me last year. Still got the old one though

  • Industry standard for wheels is astonishingly 4mm vertical and lateral misalignment. This is on a disc brake bike. 2mm for a rim brake wheel.

  • Just got an enigma ti etap to add to the fleet and it’s the smoothest most comfortable bike I’ve ever had. It’s sure footed, fast and most importantly, looks good. It’ll outlive me for sure.

  • I’m a short girl (5.2″ 160cm) and I’m looking for a gravel bike mostly for road rides, commuting and weekends out. I do live in Europe, so my choice is a bit limited.
    Budget of 2k
    Any good suggestions?
    With this covid �� I can’t go out and try them as there are no bikes available in the shops ��

  • 5 years ago I bought my first road bike from local bike shop, I had low budget for the bike because I had to get everything else (clothers, helmet, etc.) So my bike was like 700 Ł. Now I know I love cycling and I will be riding in the future so I want to get something better for the next season. I think I don’t want to spend much more than 1k so I will look for 1-3 years old higher spec bike. Can’t wait for what I will find:)

  • So my cheap walmart bike gave out after two years of ownership. I started looking into getting a more serious bike, but before I committed to one, my friend gifted me his 10-year-old cannondale f5. It needs work, but I was blown away by the way it rides. I’m thinking about overhauling it, but I’m not sure if it would be worth the cost. After all, the f5 isn’t worth that much to begin with. Should I invest in my newly acquired cannondale, or go out and buy myself a new bike?

  • The cassette to check and make sure that isn’t loose to either I too have a Cannondale. Sometimes I can set works itself loose. Still don’t know why?

  • As someone who’s had back surgery this is the geometry that works for me specially for longer rides. My Jena’s great! Everyday I’m always excited to ride it.

  • 13:58 “His stem has stopped takin’ Viagra as well”, HAHAHAHAHA! Now that’s the type of one-liners I subscribed for! Top content, lads!����

  • Hello Sir,

    I am from India and a subscriber of your channel. Thanks for sharing wonderful videos with us. I really like the content of your videos. I am planning to buy a MTB. I am confused between 2017 model superfly 5 and 2019 model x caliber 8. I like the components on superfly 5 but frame of x caliber 8 2019 model lools attractive
    please help me.which MTB I should by?

  • 19:00: the manufacturer of frame is “csepel” pronounced totally wrong it’s “chepel” not “chesspell”.It’s sounds like the English word “chapel” but with an e… it’ s a Hungarian bike company and Csepel is the name of a district in Budapest. I recommend their new gravel frameset the Csepel -deepspace

  • Someone told me that I need boost. I’ve been told that I need a shorter off-set fork…or was that a longer off-set? Surely they’re right though, right? Right?
    But I have a blast on my bike the way it is now! I feel like a rock star already!
    Could they be right?
    Rather than build my existing bikes up the way I want…and they would look SICK! Should I just drop 5 grand on a bike that comes with the same old Sram bits and pieces that everyone has on their bikes?

  • Pretty crap that people are buying bikes where the wheels arent true. I bought 2 Giant bikes and an Avanti no issues with any of them.

  • Hey Cam, you seem to ride a lot in the rain and rinse the bike with the hose. How often are you changing your BB and wheel bearings?

  • ok, if you have low end bike (like under 700€) i think it isnt really worth it. If you buy like 1500 bike with good frame and fork you can use it for 5-6 years or eaven more!

  • Do all three-buy new and upgrade old and enter every GMBN and GCN contest, especially when the prize is a whole new bike. Sweetness.

  • Sounds like excellent material for a built or bought presenter challenge video. 1 new highish spec bike, and all the presenters have to build a better bike with the same budget. Could be almost completely second hand frame and parts. New bike with upgrades or any variation thereof.

  • Just recently I’ve upgraded my 2015 strive 6.0 al with a set of new wheels, tire, saddle and seatpost and it’s 100% ready to go. Also got my suspension serviced.

  • Some ppl just try to sell theyr bikes after 1 year for as much money as they can, so they will make sum money and have latest and greatest. That i also a strategy

  • I bought a Boardman bike for like £1000. I didnt check the initial spoke tension and if the wheel is true or not. Few days after my rear wheel completely deformed beyond truing and Halfords (which is Boradman official dealer) told me that wheels are not under warranty. and I had to purchase a new wheel for £120 pounds which is quite unfortunate.

  • Every one knows a bike is only good for 6 months before you have to bin it. Especially if your bike cost less than $4k. Any bike less than $4k is a budget bike. You need the longest, lowest, slackest, and most sprung ride otherwise you suck. If you can’t keep up with the joneses you suck. If you have bad/no credit you suck. If you ride a 26er you suck. If your bike doesn’t have the latest standards you suck.

    These videos are a crock of shit.

  • All riders who don’t race, should have one, myself, i have one amongst my 5 bikes, its the option to go virtually everywhere there’s no traffic, pure fun and enjoyment ��

  • I usually maintain my bikes for like 3 years and sell em on for a new one.
    But I still got my first bike since 2015 and considering selling my scott genius I got last year as it’s a size too small for my preference.

  • Mybike is in the shop now because the pedals were frozen in the crank arms. Remove them periodically and grease them so they will come off when you want them too.

  • I really love my voodoo, and have made changes. However, you do have to think what you’re doing with the cost. So I’m planning to go for a Scott genius. (But will keep the voodoo, it’s just me)

  • Basically I break a bike down to a five year lifespan. And trail bikes become very old fast with “trends”. What I do is take the price of a bike divided by five for five years and that’s the depreciation point. Pretty much matches up with Kelly’s bluebook on bicycles. Usually you get to that two year point where you can get 5O-60% Of the bikes value of well taken care of. And that makes it great down payment for a new bike especially when Trek credit card that you have zero interest for one year.

  • hell no I’m not buying a new bike here in the USA. We’re fooked. Screwed up flattening the curb AND alot of small businesses are about to go in the shitter. Better of buying bullets and canned ��food

  • I got one on order and my wife doesn’t know. I literally only bought this one two months ago…It’s really not my fault though because they didn’t have what I wanted at the time.��

  • Personally I feel that if cost was not so high for gravel bikes they would be perfect for entry level adventurers. To me a gravel bike is the half point between a road bike and MTB. And if you are new to cycling and thinking about taking more seriously than it’s perfect you can ride trails, race friends, and even a great commuter.

    thank you if you read the whole thing sorry its long

  • Yup, bought a new bike from Wiggle. Didn’t check the tires, got a flat right away. Bolts on brake rotors, and general screws have to be checked as you say. Adjust derailleurs. Even when buying from a shop, they don’t (all) check over these details.Be careful, do the above and you’ll be glad you did.

  • Your cycling videos are very well done and very informative.  I’m getting a new Trek bike next week and I especially like the tips that prevent scratches to the paint.  I doubt Trek sells labels like the Mavic labels you show, but I’ll find something to protect those spots.   Thanks again.  I have subscribed to your channel.

  • Another consideration: maybe you want to maintain your existing bike without investing too much, and use your cash to buy an additional bike (e.g. maintain your trusty old full sus, and get yourself a new hardtail or rigid bike)

  • Congrats to your sis. Fine effort. My bike is called Trigger (as in Trigger’s Broom, look it up!) Only original parts are the handlebars, seat post and frame. It’s a Moda Echo and has done 10,760 miles. I have my eye on a 2017 Specialized Roubaix Expert Di2 with carbon wheels in the sales. Maybe you can pop this in the competition next week? 😉

  • McLarens lose most of their value (except for the old F1) and watches definitely lose their value too (unless they’re a Rolex or a Patek for example)

  • Due to the pandemic and coming from an ultra running backroom, I really didn’t know what to get ended getting a gravel( adventure) bike and I couldn’t be any happier with my decision ��!

  • DON’T USE IT Buy a new bike for the warranty? In tree years time all my warranty experiences with Scott had been a headache. Now I got a cracked frame and it looks like whelding is the only solution. Just because I do service by my self…REUSE IT

  • the mounting options thing is not the greatest argument IMO there’s a special class of bikes touring for the ultra long distance rides with no access to potable water. In most of UK you’d really have to make effort to avoid places with water for more than 6 hours…

  • Yup. Back to bikes after a very long time. 64 years old and unfit, and my gravel bike is absolutely flawless. No discomfort, fun over dirt, fast enough on the road. A pure delight. Well spoken chap ��

  • Quite weird location to put your sunglasses! They seem to act as a aero brake, after all those $$ trying to get an aero bike. Plus, you would get the bugs and other road stuff on the other side of your glasses as well. When do you guys remove your glasses? I have photochromic glasses and never take them off. Maybe I should when I get hot?

  • guys every day second hand, just bought a 2012 tcr advanced pro 0 with campagnolo record…… for 800euro with pedale ( keo blade carbon ) and last year i bought a mondraker chrono pro sl 2015 with 100km on it for half the price

  • Hi there mate, I own the same exact bike in the video (Marin Gestalt Two), and I’ve been dealing with an annoying clicking sound coming from the BB area…it happens when i push on the pedals (starting from a stand for instance), and the verdict from my bike guy it’s it probably comes from the frame itself. I’ve replaced wheels, cassette, chainring and BB, everything’s been torqued to specs and properly greased and there are no visible cracks anywhere on the frame. Do you agree with the aforementioned “diagnosis” or do you happen to have any different insight? Thanks in advance, hope to hear back from you!
    Cheers from Italy

  • Sold my road bike the other day (Orbea Avant) because it’s been gathering dust since I bought myself a Mason Bokeh last year for gravel/adventure riding

  • 2015 specialized venge pro in hyper green/black with dura ace 9000 and roval clx60 its my summer bike so 3/4000 miles per summer. Plus a 2015 tifosi disc bike which is for getting to work a d back and ride in pooop weather around 7000 miles per year its had a new chain & cassette every 12months and washed once a week. And has just been sent bk with a crack in the frame under warrenty ��

  • Yo cam, love the vids mate but you need to have a word with yourself because that spag bol looked like it had no tomato based sauce on it what’s so ever. Unbelievable Jeff.

  • Bought it new in 1974, BTW my Brooks Professional saddle cost 20USD, spent 10USD on a cutting edge titanium water bottle cage, relaced my own wheels and had sew-ups, black leather shoes, black hairnet, wool and real chamois shorts, anyway my bike is this:

  • Ur videos are extremely helpful dear..
    I also have a new Mountain Bike and it has a different problem its back axle and cassettes are wobbling and now my chainring also started to wobble i have 3 chainring set in front and because of that now chain started to rub on front derailleur.. what do u think is the problem?

  • A little tip when trueing wheels and changing tubes….baby powder. It lubricates the tube so it unfolds correctly inside the wheel. Also, whn replacing tubes partially fill with air first then deflate…then reinflate…this takes any kinks out.

  • When it comes to bar height listen to Lil Jon and Get Low, all kidding aside I don’t see how bigger tires will effect the relative bar height unless your running a larger front and a smaller back, what it might effect is the ability to stand over the top tube without injury.

  • Still pilot an oldschool Giant tcr team. Rolf wheels, all shimano ultegra, speedplay, and have always kept her clean. She’s a head turner still.

  • Not controversial! Good comments. My next bike is going to be a gravel bike. A Curve Kevin titanium to share my shed with my titanium Curve Belgie Spirit. Call me Captain Comfort! (From a 49 yo haha)

  • I prefer used bikes with better quality if it comes to everyday-doing the shopping-traveling around-bicycles, they are really cheap and least pretty long and they never get stolen. But for sportbikes I had to find out there are not many for sale that fit my size (really small). I prefer having a cheap bike for the beginning than an uncomfortable one, even though my budget is really low XD

  • I am a child that is the size of an adult so I am going to need like 4 different sizes of bikes throughout my teenage years… which is in 7 days btw:P

  • The listed price for used bikes are usually aspirational. Usually the real price you can get the bike is between 10-50% lower than the list price.

  • I’ve had mine 2 years but I’m looking to get a new one for racing. Hoping to get one on sale from this years stock when the 2018 ones come in.

  • I suggest you buy your bike at a reputable bike shop that offers a service warranty… Shouldn’t have to do all this if your bike shop is worthy

  • I got a cx frameset and wheels for a redicules price and I mean redicules. I put cx gearing on at first but it wasn’t good for gravel climbs so I put an old claris grouop set on with a 32 cassette and it’s perfect now and the skip in gears isn’t to noticeable. I can just about get a 40mm tire in and again its spot on. Might try a 650 next. I would love a dedicated gravel bike and will always point people wanting a new bike in the gravel direction but for what I’ve built for the money I can’t complain.

  • Great show guys, I guess because there is 83000 watching the new bike video rather than 16000 to maintain and update your bike, people are in to getting a new bike, or atleast dreaming about it. lol

  • I love my components but not my geo and linkage design what do you think of upgrading frame and shock? Does that count as a new bike???

  • Manufacturers should make frames affordable as a replacement part. Wheels fixable forks serviceable. Chains are cheap cassettes and rings last for years. Keep. Guys buy new bikes so i can buy 2 years later for half orice or less.

  • When is comes to installing of tubes, I have always used a little baby power to lightly coat the inside of the tire and the tube itself. Then I continue with inflating a little at a time while squeezing the side walls to let the tube find its position. The powder aids in the tube finding its position, by lessening friction inside the tire

  • Who will put down 8000.00 for a used Pina F10? no warranty, might be a copy….. Did you offer any ‘real’ examples? 1500.00 bottom end new vs 1500.00 high end used. I’ve only ever bought 1 new bike, MTB because the spec and evolution is so fast in MTB that old tech is OLD and used up. Road bikes however, there is way more in the rider than the bling road bike, so I dont waste money on new road bikes, buy 2-4yr old high end and smile all the way to the bank.

  • Frames don’t wear out, components do. So if you’re happy with the set up don’t change it unless it breaks. I’ve an old steel frame from the 80s but it’s ace as a January / February single gear bike to spin the legs after a Cx season. Plus 6 other bikes to use as my racing / training dictates.

  • I picked up a 2020 Genesis Croix de Fer Titanium model about a month or so ago and have been riding it nonstop. It’s fantastic on the rough UK roads and loves being on the simple trails with its stock 37C tyres. It’s still pretty quick on the road, almost as fast as my steel roadie on 28s, but the fun factor is there. Also, I do rather like the beautiful GRX groupset on it…feels a bit chunkier than the Ultegra gear I have and more pleasing to feel. I reckon you’re right for gravel bikes as a niche filler as well as for the newcomer certainly worth looking at.

  • I see the idiots desided to make you put your sunglasses backwards into the wind, causing alot more drag, rather than keeping them in the rounded direction they should be giving you less drag lol even the arms of the sunglasses are giving you drag here!!!! nutjobs

  • I com
    completely agree with trekkeruss…
    1. Most all (90%) of loose bearing wheel hubs are always much too tight, and if they are not adjusted correctly the bearings quickly turn into coffee grinds. So you can have a wheel hub that can last one week or 10 years by simply adjusting the hubs.. So when you purchase a bike at a shop “INSIST” they check and adjust your hubs, do not accept any excuses, or threaten to drop the sale.
    2. Insist they check and true your derailleur hanger, with a derailleur hanger tool. 80% of new derailleur hangers are not true and will negatively affect your shifting. Especially if you purchase an electronic shifting bike ie di2 or eTap.
    3. If you purchase a carbon frame bike make sure they lightly grease the inside of the seat clamp and the threads on the seat clamp bolt, otherwise the clamp will never tighten correctly and will tend to pinch at the opening of the seat clamp and crack the seat tube clamp area.

    There are many more, but these 3 are a must…
    FYI, If your dealer says the hubs are sealed bearing not loose bearing, then it’s OK since sealed bearing hubs can not be adjusted. Only if they are loose bearing.

  • totally agree on all points, currently on Gt Grade and trek 920 and love that I can throw anything at them. Off to Scotland soon where I intend to put the trek 920 through its paces on some serious adventure / gravel rides. Great vids please keep it up!

  • Coming from a modified car background. I’m a big supporter of getting a good base bike and upgrading as time goes on makes it more yours. There is no right or wrong though as long as it gets you out there riding. Love this format guys

  • Good content as always, thanks for the video. I’d have a quick question if you don’t mind. On my bike I’m quite comfortable right now, but I find it weird that in order for my pedaling to be pain free long term I need to push the saddle way back on the rails. It kinda puzzles me because other factors would seem to indicate that a frame a size bigger wouldn’t be right, for example I had to shorten the stem because I was feeling that the reach was too long even just with a 100 mm one. Do you think that considered that I have the saddle all the way back, going for a bigger size bike next time would create a similar fit, with just maybe for example less spacers and the saddle more centered or even a bit forward? I mean, can those parameters cancel themselves out at times? I’d really love to know from you if you’ve ever observed something like that happening.

  • I have my DeVinci for the last 2 years Alum frame on 105 groupset Wish to change for new shinny one But I dont need it Investing 3000$ is alot of money for average joe weekend warrior!

  • Buying my first bike today. My country finally allowed it during lockdown. But it’s in lockdown that I got interested in cycling. Thank you for this information for noobs like me, I would of just got on the bike and driven it lol

  • I bought my bike online from a store which has some shops too. It came fully installed, all I had to do was set the stem and install the pedals (obviously since the bike didn’t come with pedals). Before they ship their bikes though they do a full check by one of their mechanics and include a maintenance flyer and all. And in case I do have any problem with my bike (which ofcourse occured once or twice I can always just go to one of their stores (not too far from where I live) and they fix it for me. Also after my first couple of rides I did go to their store to just let them check my bike real quick to make sure everything really is good (which they did for free). Great service imho, not sure every bike store would do that

  • OMG I had always heard a creaking sound from the back of my bike. I thought it was because it was an ebike and was from the motor. It was the spokes lol

  • I bought a new wheel set gears and dropper post for my bike with in the last few months. Going tubeless was such a great idea. Plus bought back up vittoria mezcal 29×2.25 yesterday.

  • The sticky oil on the chain is not lube. It’s a protective agent that keeps the Cain from rusting depending on storage until it gets home to the customer.
    Best practices I would say is remove it from the bike, degrease it completely with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol in a bag or small container. Then remount it and add a real lube of your choice. Remount with quick link or use a new one if required from the manufacturer.

  • Until it’s costing to much to repair or replace I don’t see a need to buy new. I rebuilt a few bikes. I’ll ride them until there’s nothing left. I don’t care about newer tech.

  • hey friends very interesting video i just wish i would have seen this first before buying a new bike. i bought a 1997 specialized hard rock bike 18 speed, no suspension, 27.5 tires years ago brand new after a while i wanted to upgrade the fork for suspension fork but was told my bike was way too old and obsolete and couldn’t get even tune up parts for it anymore. it still had the 1″ headset and such but still love this bike. so two years ago i impulsively bought a 2017 specialized rock hopper hard tail 27 speed bike 29″ tires and love this as its more modern, then this year i did it again and bought a 2018 specialized stumpjumper comp alloy 27.5. only rode this one so far. for bikes that are like my 1997 rock hopper, is there any after market that still makes parts for them or is it a lost cause cause parts availability seems very limited even for second hand stuff?

  • I have a Gary Fisher Joshua F4(20 year old bike) that I recently bought from a friend. He upgraded the front suspension and I’m going to replace the drive train this coming Spring. Can I get some thoughts and feedback please?

  • I have a MTB that I love, and I think I’d just put some narrower tires on it if I wanted to go faster on gravel. Right now I need a proper road bike, but even then I’ll end up with one of those that’s more built for comfort, like a Specialized Allez. I’m not going to be racing the local crits or anything.:)

  • 1. put some glue on head of nipple and rim-othervise it will loosen
    2.people that assembly bikes, they work to make as much as possible bikes and do not have time to play with tyre adjustment and work for low money, think that they must make 20-40 bikes per day and that every day
    3. clean your chain from sticky grease that is not intended for ride, and you can put into petrol and it will not destroy chainbike chains do not have rubber o rings inside as motobike chains
    4. lubricate chain by wax it will extend life for 50% if use it every 100km, do not exceed 140km without new wax, after 180km chain is destroyed( now i test to lubricate it every 100 km and it still works after 50% longer life and it seams it will reach 100% longer life)

  • Well I’m 13 and can’t even afford a used mountain bike after I worked all summer so if someone can help me out I’ll buy a new bike right away because I don’t even have one

  • You have the coolest siblings in the world! You rocking it on the bike, your sister going to the World Championships and your brother doing so well in the boxing world! #GoTeamJeffers

  • I have found a slightly used 2012 bianchi oltre sram red for 2000 euros should I buy that or should I buy a brand new 2020 sprint or aria for around the same money?

  • I had the perfect excuse for a new bike. Got my Scott Genius trashed by a hit and run driver. Now got a lovely new Virus Escarpe. Pity I had to wait to ride it properly because of hurt hip and arm. But worth the wait.

  • I have yet to work in a shop, or purchase a bike from a shop, that doesn’t do all of this at the point of sale; and saying that 99% of the bikes you purchase from a shop aren’t having this done is an insult to every LBS out there.

  • I would have money for a new bike but if you have good sense of mechanical and you know what and why are you doing upgrade your bike. It is awesome, Zen feeling!:-) Learn your bike, upgrade your bike with future-proof parts.

  • SickBiker, How do you feel about me not giving up my SuperV400, After all this time, I can’t let her go, but I’m ready for some serious upgrades!

  • Better off with end of season new bike if you can find the size you want. Massive savings to be had from retailers. 2nd hand for a winter bike

  • Seems like even standard road bikes are pushing into gravel territory with wider tire clearance and mounting options. Im not sure many people these days want a bike to do a crit. Most people just want to cruise around. I have 2 gravel bikes. One is more traditional road bike carbon with no mounting points. But it can take up to 38 tires. Which is my big ride bike. I also have a steel frame gravel bike with 650B 1.9 which i commute with. Its perfect for soaking up potholes and letting me jump off curbs when the need presents. I cant imagine a world where I get on a bike with 25mm tires and a slammed stem.

  • I would add that most big box store bikes do not lubricate the bearings in the headtube. It’s not something a normal consumer can really check but I would recommend if they have a friend who knows how to do so
    Failing that they should get their LBS to check.

  • I bought my bike new because I am a newbie and wanted to get a proper fitting bike and customer service. Now I still have to wait till mid of august. It’s a Rose backroad.

  • Was a no brainer here atleast; My budget was originally 1400£ or so on a new bike but for that price one basically got a bare minimum 9kg+ bike. Got my bike used (Nakamura 6.0), weighs just under 7kg, carbon frame/fork, and it was barely used. Got it for 550£… Complete no brainer. Previous owner said he used it only on 6-9 trips in total since he had it from august 2013, and sure enough, according to the bike computer it was 97km. Owner before that used it apparently even less. Been riding for a month now, super happy with it.

    Changed the tires and tubes just in case due to age but that was a very small investment. So i personally highly recommend going for used one, but be patient and try to find one that has been used little or has been taken good care of.

  • I love my Trek 820 and it is over 5 years old. I bought it used from a pawn shop for 75$. The tires and wheels alone are worth 100$ ( hutchinson toros ) and after investing 150 in a new front shock, as well as a seatpost shock, it is perfect. Downhill is really fun, street is easy enough, and it still looks great. I prefer rim brakes over disc but to each their own. The advantage of disk brakes is minimal but, the added issues are not. Let’s be honest, unless you are a pro racer or downhill/enduro racer then yeah you will benefit from a slightly faster time but the average guy doesn’t need all that extra overpriced shit. Waste of money.

  • Or you could buy a custom steel (or vintage) or ti frame with a 1 ich threaded fork. Then you can raise your stem way up there. or not. I was unable to get comfortable on a out of box production bike due to a back injury, even with aftermarket stems.

  • I have a 3 year old Bianchi Intenso. Done 20,000km. On my 5th chain and 2nd cassette. On my 4th wheelset (stock was rubbish, didn’t like the Mavics, Pro-lites were good but bearings were rubbish, now on Campy Zonda C17), 4th saddle (stock was rubbish, 2nd stolen, 3rd broke), 3rd seat post (replaced stock for carbon, carbon broke, bought alloy), 2nd stem (stock was too long), 2nd bars (to match new stem). Also replaced cranks for SRAM Quarq PM. Replaced rear derailleur cage after chainsuck nearly ripped the whole chainset off. On 3rd set of BB bearings and 2nd headset.

    Apart from that, the bike is totally original, and looks like new!!

  • My wife is pretty upset that i told her the tv is telling me to buy a new bike. What she doesnt know is i already purchased a new frame 3 days ago������

  • Great vid and a very important topic for many. One thing that I think you should have mentioned that maybe you can do in another video is physical/health condition or especially for younger riders that out grow their current bike.

    IE: I had heart surgery a few years ago and it’s been a real struggle to get back to where I was on a regular bike so I’m looking at getting an EMTB to help make the rides more fun for me and my son (so he doesn’t have to wait on me on the ups…lol) but also my son has outgrown his old bike and we need to get him a new one for the kind of riding/racing that he wants to do. There’s lots of factors to this subject but sometimes there’s no choice about getting a new/newer bike to fit your needs.

  • I have a great local bike shop with mechanics who ride, watch cycling videos while they work, and make their living fixing bikes and they are really nice, approachable lads. Before buying any used bike at a discount I would go to them for advice on what it might cost to bring it up to spec, and then I would think about how much gratuity I might offer them. Simple information acquirement and maths, really.

  • Keep thinking about it, hitting the end of climb and seeing a gravel road heading up is way too tempting, occasionally i’ll head up on my road bike but it’s a horrible ride. might have to sell the MTB which I stopped using a long time back. ��‍♂️

  • “Buy a new bike but watch out it could end up costing you”. I admit I finally gave up my 26-in specialized rock hopper and I couldn’t be happier with the 27.5 giant stance with added seatpost dropper. Very much like what I did with the specialized, I will gradually upgrade to higher end drivetrain over time.

  • Love your videos Francis and Daisy but I’m sick of being told I “need” a gravel bike. I expect it from industry whores like Bikeradar but maybe a more balanced view from you. Think I’ll take a holiday from these videos.

  • The route I took was a new bike that in their clearance inventory. I was able to upgrade to a 2018 Roubaix expert di2 for for 50% off the list price. It is a major upgrade from my trek domane al3

  • I rode and raced my steel Peugeot for 20 years. I’ve had my aluminum Cervelo for about 7 years. Still no carbon… maybe that’s why I continue to get my arse kicked?..

  • I’m upgrading/maintaining my ’13 Zesty 514 but I’m finding it harder to find 26″ tyres I like. I’m reluctant to upgrade my wheels as they’re not futureproof because 27.5″ has taken over.

  • N+1 is a thing in my house, but I have to wrangle the evil keeper of the monies and do battle with her to get it! Current stable stands at 7, with 1 (26″ DJ hard tail) being handed down to my eldest son, 1 being sold off (old DH bike) and 1 about to also part ways (R.I.P Cannondale). Just need to wage war with the keeper of monies to get my hands on an enduro HT haha.

    Oh, and the old saying “you cant polish a turd”? Well, you CAN polish a turd…….its called coprolite… it lol

  • Stack and reach matters too. If you need a non mainstream bike fit (long legs / short torso needs more stack and less reach frames) then this limits the frames that you can choose. Also some brands do not hold their resale value despite being dam awesome bikes Giant and Merida bikes are very good but lose value fast, so here you can get a 10,000 retail bike 2yrs old for less than 3000. Get an education and bank the savings.

  • My new bike rims also seemed to not be 100% true but in the owners manual it states that you should not perform any adjustments until the bike has been broken in and it states to wait 30 days of riding before making adjustments like truing the rim.
    I followed the instructions in my manual and the rim appears to have straighted itself the manual says that the spokes need time to properly seat as well as cables to stretch etc it says do not ride it hard until the 30 day break in period is over and have performed the adjustments needed at that time. What does everyone else think I am curious this is my very 1st brand new bike I have only ever had used bikes but this year I bought a brand new bike.

  • I have a 2013 Giant XTC and already put a ton of cash in it to get it to where I want for performance and fit. I can’t bring myself to sell it lol, the only original part on my bike is the frame, everything else has performance upgrades. My son keeps telling me I “need” a new bike, but I strongly disagree. I still have an old 3×10 drivetrain made up of Shimano xtr and xt components and shifts like a dream, and 3×10 is much better for cadence matching than any of the newer systems. Funny how he always asks to ride my bike over his newer style one hmmm lol.

  • Great video guys, I like the the two presenters having a chat theme. I would say upgrade to a new bike when the technology improve for example a modern bike will come with a 1x and a dropper set post, these are the main reasons for me buying new.

  • We don’t care about Portland’s weather. Don’t waste our time with it.
    We don’t care what you’re getting free from Cannondale that the rest of us aren’t. Again, don’t waste our time with it.
    We came for new-bike maintenance tips; not a weather report or boasting about your swag.
    Just get to the tips. Our time is as valuable as yours.

  • I am having difficulty understanding the relation between the bike geometry and my body measurements…. Which of my body dimension relates to the Effective Horizontal Top bar measurement on the bike? Same thing with the other parts…

  • Great show as ever. In five years time I think GCN will be just one hour of Bike Vault seven days a week.

    And people will love it!

    ps anyone else getting sick of that Oakley advert?

  • I had my giant defy stolen 2014 tiagra 10 speed totally standard no upgrades valued when new at 1k. I went 2nd hand and bought a 2014 Ltd edition 2014 propel with slr wheels and slr aero bars and ultegra 6800 throughout. For

  • My wife is pretty upset that i told her the tv is telling me to buy a new bike. What she doesnt know is i already purchased a new frame 3 days ago������

  • Ice hockey shin pad tape works great. Better than packing tape. It stretches and it’s thicker than packing tape so it gives better protection.

  • OMG, you monster! How could you pick one dog up but not the other, look at those eyes! ��
    Also, you should have addressed the n+1 rule it’s always a good time to buy a new bike!
    Loving your vids mate.

  • Used bike, specially the higher tier ones. 99% of the top-end bikes are bought by middle-aged doctors, lawyers and businessmen to impress their cycling buddies. Bikes get ridden sparely for 1 or two years and then they get the newest aero-this on a 40k TT they’ll never come close to even consider and sell the bike for half of the original price. People racing high watts at an amateur level don’t have bling parts and bikes, because racing = crashing once every few races.

  • I’m thinking about buying a Canyon with an integrated bar and stem, so I have 2 fears: can’t try it out first, and can’t adjust the stem. Any advice on choosing size when I know it would be really expensive to change the bar/stem?

  • Definitely in the upgrading camp! I’ve been swapping out parts on my bike over the last year and it is riding so sweet now and so much better than any new bike in my price range could. The problem with a new bike is that there will always be some parts where comers have been cut (normally wheels) that need to be replaced anyway!

  • What other Endurance Bikes should I be looking at apart from Cube Agree C62, Giant Defy, Cannondale Synapse, Canyon Endurace CF, Specialized Roubaix. Will probably go for Ultegra Carbon wanting to pay around £2500.
    I’m looking at second hand too.

  • Actually gravel bike truly shine for people that has limited space in their home or apartment. Imagine having a house with 36m2 of area to have multiple bike. A gravel bike with 700c and 650b wheelset is nice optimum for storage and versatility.

  • Beware when buying bikes from big chains like Decathlon and Halfords. I’ve never had a bike from either retailer that wasn’t badly misadjusted from new despite them checking the bike at the point of sale. Most of their guys are not trained bike mechanics.

  • Never buy used carbon bikes. You can’t be sure of the structural integrity of the frame, especially under the thick glossy paint. Also, nobody sells a decent road bike for no reason. If its to good to be true, its a scam.

  • I recently spent 40 Euros for an 11x Sram NX derailleur including the shifter. An additional 28 Euros for a cassette, 9 Euros for a new chain and 10 Euros for a narrow wide chain ring from the bike classifieds. A nice cheap upgrade for a hardtail. The previous 2×10 group including chain and cassette I sold for 50.

    I always prefer upgrading when you have the chance to get some really cheap parts because somebody upgrades a bike to something even better. Good chance to go for nice parts with a tiny budget.

  • That Bentley Bike looks hideous! And I don’t believe for one second that either of the presenters really like it. You don’t like a grey and orange Orbea and THAT. Whatever THAT tries to be. On top of that those break levers will get you killed.

  • Top video jajajajaj now feel motivated to get on the trail mzself, what gest me going the longest while bike is delta parole or other rokk music!

  • Dudes @ GCN be like “oh this bike is just like 8k“
    Here i am buying a 500$ used Specialized Diverge and patting myself in the back

  • Cycle to Work is a game-changer for this whole debate. I’ve ridden my Bianchi 1885 (£1,000 in 2006) into the ground, adapting it to compete in all sorts of challenges (e.g Ironman, Les Cingles) and now hugely excited to be building a new discounted F10 frame with Campag Chorus for sub 5k before a hefty discount courtesy of C2W.

  • Cervelo RS 8 years. Rides like new and I often get comments from people thinking it’s new. I think with Carbon that as long as you’ve not had any spills the material can last indefinitely. I maintain the bike and replace what is needed to extend the life span of components

  • I have a fairly general question, if I may.
    I’m 179-180cm tall, of a fairly robust, stout build at the moment (fairly out of shape), inseam is 80cm, have been riding for some 22 years (but mostly mountain bikes and folders).
    I’m planning an acquisition of a gravel bike (Norco Search XR carbon), nominally 53cm size (that’s the sold size the shop is stocking now); sporting the following geometry:

    Reach: 383
    Stack: 563
    Head Tube Angle: 71.5
    Seat Tube Length: 490
    Effective Seat Tube Angle: 73.75
    Rear Centre Length: 422.5
    Front Centre Length: 604
    Bottom Bracket Rise/Drop: -73
    Bottom Bracket Height: 279.5
    Horizontal Top Tube: 548
    Wheel Base: 1015
    Stand Over: 767
    Head Tube Length: 138
    Fork Length: 395
    Stem Length: 100
    Crank Length: 172.5

    I’ve come across a number of shop owners who recommend 53-54cm for me. But every single manufacturer sizing chart I’ve come across online, including Norco (the bicycle in question) recommends 55cm to 58cm frames.
    What are the chances that a 53cm frame (effectively, 548mm) is too small for me?

    Thank you.

  • Geometry is just the way companies inflate price, sames as fragile back glass on smartphones for “premium feel”

    -Adjust your seat
    -Change your stem height/angle+handlebar if you want comfort

  • I know that Pole made good enduro bike. But every time i look at the design, it look like those outdated rearshock spring fullsus bike with new air rearshock.

  • There’s no rule that says the stem has to be above all the spacers. You can start with a taller steerer tube, fiddle with the stem & spacers until you find what works best for you, and then decide whether or not to cut the steerer. And you can try stems that have differing degrees of rise, too.

  • A lot of these shows they talk about bikes that are a couple of years old being ‘old bikes’. Is that simply because of the fashions of hobby/pro cycling, or is it a commentary on the durability of carbon and aluminium equipment, or is it the average amount of time that someone can expect to go between major refurbishment at a garage being needed?

  • I bought a new bike this year because I broke my leg last summer and wouldn’t be able to ride again until this spring at earliest. So, I sold my bike last fall so that it didn’t grow cobwebs from lack of use. Then, this year I had to replace it! Lovely!

  • IMOPre 2016 really consider upgrading. To me there’s a big difference around 2016 in mountain bike geo and components that have made the newer bikes really awesome. Of course I tend to fall in love with my bikes, so I totally get upgrading too.

  • 😮 the men’s canyons are so much cheaper! i just paid £2550 for a women’s Ultimate CF SLX with mechanical ultegra.. and that was the clearance price, already a saving of £650 off the original price.

  • My problem is that I am way too skilled and aggressive for my bike. I still have an entry level hardtail, and it works fine, but I often go waaay slower than I’d be comftarble because I’m afraid to destroy the bike.
    In my case I should definetly buy a new one, but while I save some money do you have any suggestions on how to get the most out of it?

  • I’d add few things;
    If you love and feel relly confident and comfortable on your current bike, it can be better to keep it. Sometimes it’s hard to adapt to a new bike.
    Also, in this vid the “old” bike isn’t that old. Still the same type of technology pretty much. Of course if you’ve got no dropper post, no suspensions settings or even worse, 26″ wheels ^^ then think about getting a new one:’D
    Btw really love that old spectral ex 8.0 Color, look, specs etc

  • Great vlog thank for the great advice I I use a Steel dish with diesel and an stiff paintbrush my thoughts are it works better than degreaser. And I’d go with painters tape so it doesn’t leave residue ��

  • Except that there’s no way I’m paying more than $1000 just for a bike… for that I could just get a dirt bike in great condition. That’s what I paid for my car��

  • Similar to buying a new guitar. It’s got to be “set up.” Sometimes they’re completely in spec straight from the factory. Most of the time they’re not. Excellent vid. Keep up the good work!

  • I see why you wouldn’t want to air the tubes/tires up so quickly. However, I work in a shop and a compressor is the most effective method to seat tires. The pressure will place the tire flush against the rim. All you  have to do is air it down to riding pressure afterwards.

  • Francis couldn’t agree more and to share how fun a gravel bike could be, check out my video I just posted getting a Strava KOM next to the Golden Gate Bridge!

  • Could somebody pease comment on the geometry of the Grail AL 6.0? From what Ive figured out, its quite sporty which is not something that scares me, as I usually do 3h tours max. However the last 2 days I spent 20h in the saddle. Whats the riding position like for longer rides?

  • dont dip the chain in degreaser? Huh. I know many people using ultra sonic cleaners all the time. Just oil it back up, problem! I remove my chain completely via masterlink and soak it in lighter fluid. Never had issue yet!

  • Recently bought an OTSO “Waheela C.” All-road wheels=700c x 50mm. Off-road Wheels=650B x 2.25 inch. Saving for Paved-road wheels for the perfect bike for all but the most extreme situations (ie. full suspension MTB).

  • Glad she did better than a lot of other girls! I wanted to go cheer her on as it’s only 3 hours drive, but how awkward would it have been, “Go Jeffers!!! I watch your brother’s YouTube channel!” ��

  • I just got a 2017
    -S-Works Tarmac (Team Estana Edition)
    -Sram Red eTap (11 speed)
    -Brand new Zipp 404 (less than 100 miles)
    -Vision Metron aero bars.

    All for $4200

  • I think a lot of the decision comes down to budget… me personally I buy second hand bikes, upgrade them, service and maintain them to keep them going and I’ve learned a lot doing that and I enjoy it… but then I have never been in a position where I could even entertain the idea of dropping several grand on a new bike. Now whilst I do think there’s a fair percentage of riders out there who do like to keep their bikes going I also think that there’s a lot of people now (probably more now than 10 to 20 years ago) who buy a new bike, run it for a couple of years and sell it on to get another new bike before the other has depreciated in value too much… like some people do with cars. The problem is the same rule applies to bikes there as it does with cars… “as soon as you drive it off the forecourt it’s lost like 20% of its value!”
    Even now as I’m looking to start a new job in the next couple of weeks I am undecided if I’ll really drop the money on a brand new bike straight from a retailer or just try to get a newer second-hand bike and save myself a bit of cash… really I’m at a point (read ‘age’) where I can’t see any of the ‘latest and greatest’ technology making me a better rider so I’m happy running a ‘capable’ trail bike and just enjoy the ride! 😉

  • Holy shit.. I was just asking myself this same question 10 min ago when i was on the trail.. now i will watch your video and see what you say….. new bike new bike new bike! lol

  • What’s a boost wheel? I have a 2015 Giant anthem. 27.5 15mm front hub and 135mm rear hub. What’s all these boost about? What does it do? Do I already have it in my anthem?

  • Any bike shop that lets a new bike out the door with untrue wheels, a backwards chain, unseated tires…find another shop or charge the shop for your time/driving distance and inconvenience.

  • Gravel bikes are great for sure, but i have one big reason why i don’t NEED one…there is no single one gravel road where i live. It’s tarmac or rough mountain terrains…

  • Hey Cam, I had my road bike for 30+ years. I bought it because I quit racing, and wanted a new comfortable riding bike. Take it easy.

  • Agree on all terms!!!! When someone asks why a gravel bike, I just think that with the addition of gravel bikes, why would anyone not competitively racing would ever buy a road bike??
    Gravel bikes are almost as fast on tarmac depending on the choice of tires (or maybe even on rough roads), more versatile, more confortable, fit better, safer…
    MTB is different, around here, 90% of what people do on MTB would better suit a Gravel bike, but for the other 10%, leave them be!!
    Personally since I got a Gravel bike I stopped using the MTB and Road bike…
    Even for Granfondos I just use the gravel bike with slick 36mm tires, and it does not slow me down. If anything gets me to the finish line in better shape due to increase confort and safety descending.(Not to mention cobbles!! We have lots of those, so, unless you are 60kg, 28mm tires just do not work as good )

  • For years I rode a Specialized Roubaix. Recently I bought a Venge so now the Roubaix has become my gravel/adventure bike and it’s been great fun. If nothing else it’s so nice to have a second bike (cheaper) that you can go out and be a hooligan on without getting worried about breaking something

  • I would buy a quality ebay carbon frame and fork, and then build it myself.
    If i could afford it.
    I can’t so i just bought a Trek 1.1 and use that for road while i save up for a lighter MTB frame for races.
    I don’t feel that electronic shifting is going to help me in a race, as my gears are tuned to perfection every two months by myself.
    What holds me back is my weight and my bikes weight, because it’s super hard on the long climbs.

  • For online bikes: the fork comes without grease and they don’t give you any, so you have to grease them yourself before installing it.

  • sold my fixie to save up for a gravel bike, then a few weeks after I sold my FS MTB to get a CX bike. No such thing as N+1, get what you’ll need and use a lot

  • For Me as a bike tourist, a speed aficionado and a heavy and stiff rider, who hates the cumbersome and heavy, ugly classic touring bike and the one-trick pony nature and the frailty of the road bike, the sail-like position of a mountain bike and the customary omission of rack, mudguard, headlight mounts on most road-oriented race bikes and on mountain bikes, the gravel bike is about the only type of bike to own. Hence I own four three carbon ones and a steel one for loaded tours. The primary use of My bikes is road, occasionally gravel. I much prefer the term “adventure bike” to “gravel” bike.

  • Calling Hank out on his lack of geographical knowledge was brilliant! Send him to Iqaluit in January and he’ll think he’s going somewhere tropical.:)

  • I suppose with demise of ‘touring’ bikes (I started on one!) these make sense for longer trips and doing off road sections on rides.

  • There’s a reason you have Top Mods in the tech show and not “Look at my brand new bike” section. Although, you could say the Bike Vault is what that is. I think by taking a bike and changing it to meet your needs, you put a little of yourself into the bike and give it a lot more soul.

  • Got me thinking, I live in NZ with ample limestone trails, that lead to many a winery. Definitely on my radar, cheers Francis ����

  • Love riding my hardtail and do want a full suss enduro or longer travel trail just think my hardtail is going to sit around collecting dust then

  • You missed the “honestly it’s starting to be a safety hazard” and “it’s holding me back from progressing” they can both be true like if you had a fully rigid bike with rim brakes and you live in whistler Canada

  • Why not measure directly bar height from the floor and subtract BB heigit. That gives the effective “bar stack” which is really all that matters (wrt bar height fit)… or not?

  • I’m really interested in getting a bike like this. I’ve got an older MB style hybrid with flat bars but would like something lighter and more versatile.

  • Hi I’ve just bought a kona coiler, about 11 years old I believe. Just bought as a starter bike for now but needs some tlc. Is it worth bringing it back to life and upgrading with some modern parts? Or just save up for a spanking new one?

  • 6. Super fast, fun bike that merges between road biking and more aggressive mountain biking. I’ve found I can ride just about any trail fast on my gravel bike, but also get some great speed on the road for some endurance training. Overall the best!

  • Just buying a sort of gravel frame off Parcours. No mounting points though. I have only just got over the move from steel…. there can only be so much change at my age. Next, you’ll be advising me to buy Shimano things!!!!

  • Gravel bikes with racy geometry are true N-1 bikes with no compromise, as they have next to zero performance/speed loss to a road bike if the gearing is correct and tires are swapped out. My Look 765 Gravel RS has what I call mullet geometry with super short chainstays (420mm) for road bike speed/responsiveness and a super slack head angle (70deg) for stability off road. It is as capable off road as any rigid bike can be with 650×2.1 tires, yet is actually faster on pavement than my old road bike that I used to race on with road tires. Love it!

  • Please can you tell everyone Cervélo Bikes are the thing? I love them.. if you can wax lyrical, I can get more when I update next time!!

  • I love my gravel bike, and bought my Diverge for pretty much all these reasons! Highly recommend as a versatile option you can go practically anywhere on ����

  • Honestly, I think we will see real supply issues and price increases here in the US because of the problems with China. Could also see new factories coming online in different places that will have quality control issues. This is already the reality in ways. There are some practical excuses to pull trigger now.

  • All good points Francis, as usual. My last N+1 was likely to be a gravel bike, but day before lockdown, had to just rush out and buy something that’d go on a smart turbo in case the worse happened, and was kinda limited in choice in my size at local decathlon. Although, apparently frame is the same for their road and gravel bikes in that range, does have all the mounting points, etc. But when it comes to absolute versatility, I’m still wondering if my Brompton is better, especially when it comes to mounting luggage without affecting handling too much.

  • ALWAYS second hand wit better spec. Am as buying a new car, If you buy a car for 20 grand, sell it back to the dealer the next day, he’ll only give you about 11k for it. He’ll resell it then for 15.

  • I ride a titanium hardtail mountain bike that I built myself in 2009. I’ve used it for racing, commuting, riding across Texas loaded with gear, and just for fun. I’ve worn out the grips and the XO gripshifters (this was before XX was an option), but amazingly, everything else is still original even the XTR housing and cables, and it all works like new. I think it is a testament to how high-quality top-end groupsets are, and a reminder of the value of building a bike intended to last. I used v-brakes instead of disc, which I find require far less maintenance. I designed the cable routing to run across the top of the top tube to keep mud and dirt from contaminating the cables, and to make it easy to clean and lube them occasionally. I used gripshifters instead of trigger shifters, and when the rubber wore out on them, I simply wrapped them in road bike bar tape, which has worked great. I used an aluminum Raceface crankset instead of carbon, a Chris King headset, and cross-laced wheels. I ride rough and am no lightweight, so I’ve been thrilled to see this bike be so enduring. Even the fork, a superlight Manitou 100mm travel fork, has been maintenance-free and still rides like new. I’ve had less luck with carbon fiber frames and wheels, with disc brakes, and internal housing. I’d skip them on future bikes, as they all prove to be headaches in time, and there is nothing less sexy to me than having to check a bike for cracks or having to recharge batteries to shift.

  • Gravel = the path less travelled, love mine, the flexibility to be able to roll along off road for a while then roll along on road if the feeling takes you. Only down is I wish id gone for 2 x so i had a little top end on the road.

  • I crashed the fk out of my 11 year old, base model, 26”, hard tail XC bike on small dirt jumps and I could afford the full squish trail bike I’d been eyeing off. Then it went on sale.

  • I’ve picked up a gravel bike this year early on during the pandemic, its been absolutely a joy to have, its opened up a new world of fun and riding for me. I also have a dedicated road bike I use for much longer rides mainly on weekends. If I were to only have one then a gravel bike would be ideal, helps thought if you have gravel roads to actually ride on otherwise maybe not. Riding any bike really is where its at, thanks for the post!!